This Old House (of PHP, CSS, and HTML)

I've been very happy with WordPress. I keep telling myself I could be happier with it if I took more control over it, and hell, I once wrote an OS for the Apple II and I've paid a major polytechnic university a lot of money to help me learn to program hardware and software the likes of which have been forsaken by God. Customizing WordPress by hand is well within my wheelhouse.